To Milford, via Grave-Talbot Pass, 1933
Mon 2nd Jan - Mon 16th Jan
Party consisting of Lindsay McCurdy, Alec Hyndman, Rob Rodger, William [father], Murray [brother] & Lindsay [aged 15¾]
Mon 2 Jan
We left Queenstown on the boat for Elfin Bay at 8:30 am. It was raining at first, but began clearing up when we reached Elfin Bay at 11 am.
Immediately we set off for Howden. Rere Lake was reached at 11:40 am, then we crossed the Greenstone Bridge at noon. After an up-and-down track through the bush on the right bank of the Greenstone, we reached the first big creek at 12:15 pm. Shortly after fording this, the bush was left for a short time and we went into a clearing through which a large creek ran. We forded this at 12:40 pm. Then we entered the bush again and in an hour came out into the open at the Greenstone Flats. Making up the flats, we reached and forded Steele’s Creek at 2:15. It is the coldest creek I have ever forded.
40 minutes’ more walking brought us to the forks of the Greenstone, where we forded it, and then went up to Shaw’s Hut, which we reached at 2:55 pm, to have dinner.
We left this hut at 3:55 and, striking a fast pace up the flats, we reached Long Point at 4:45 pm. The first entry into the bush was made at 5:15 pm and then we came out into a clearing again. We made the final entry at 5:50 pm, the track being through bush all the rest of the way.
We caught the first glimpse of Lake McKellar at 6 pm and, after walking alongside it for some time, left it at 6:35 pm, and struck up over the saddle and down to Lake Howden, which we first sighted at 7:15 pm, arriving at the huts at 7:30. It was raining off and on all afternoon.
Stops included, we took 8½ hours from Elfin Bay to Howden, which is very good time.
Tues 3 Jan
We left for Homer Camp at 8 am. After coming down Gentle Annie at a fair speed, we reached the Hollyford River, and walked alongside it for a distance, when we came out into the open beside the river. At the other end of this opening, we had to climb a small but steep cliff on creepers. This cliff we reached at 9:20 am.
The up-and-down track was followed through the bush until at 10:15 am, Falls Creek was reached, where we rested for a while.
On setting out, Camera Flat was reached at 10:40 am, and a long walk through the bush and over fallen logs brought us to Monkey Flat at 12:30 pm.
Here we had dinner, leaving at 1:45 pm. Having forded the creek, we struck out across the flats of Lyttle’s Farm towards the
Lone Birch, which we reached at 2 pm.
The track from here lies through ferns and bushes which scratch the legs. We entered the bush for a short time, and in this bush reached Cirque Creek at 2:20 pm.
Soon the track came into the open and down to the Hollyford, which we forded at 2:45 pm over stepping stones.
The river was very high, and the water was about a foot or more above the stepping stones, and running like a mill race. Rob lost his balance and fell in, but was able to regain his feet all right. Continuing up the valley, we reached the Forks, the junction of the Hollyford and Homer Rivers, at 3:20.
After following the track up though the bush, we reached the Homer Hut at 3:40 pm.
Homer Hut & Homer's Saddle, 4 Jan 1933
It rained and spitted several times during the day. We took 7¾ hours from Howden to Homer, stops included, which is fairly fast time. It rained and hailed during the night.
Wed 4 Jan
This morning we rose early to make an attempt on the Grave-Talbot Pass. There was mist surrounding the tops, and a very cold wind was blowing.
We left Homer at 6:30 am, and climbed up Homer Saddle, reaching the top at Quill’s Cairn at 7:30 am.
Then, after a steep climb up a razor-back called Talbot’s Ladder, we reached the top of the wire ropes at 8:15 am.
Resting at top of Talbot's Ladder - Rob, Lindsay, Alec, Murray
Here we rested for half an hour and put on the rope. The order on the rope was: myself, Dad, Alec Hyndman, Lindsay McCurdy, Murray and Rob last.
This order was kept all the way across.
After leaving Talbot’s Ladder, we struck out over the first snowfield, passing beneath a wall of rock which rose up on our right.
After rounding this wall, before us we saw Lyttle's Dip, and made for it.
Lyttle's Dip from snowfield near top of Talbot's Ladder
A steep climb of 500 ft up the snowfield brought us to the Dip at 10 am.
Having got through the hole in the rock, we descended the ledge on the other side down to the second snowfield, and a level route across this took us to the Grave-Talbot Pass (5600
ft), guarded by Grave’s Ridge. We reached the pass at 10:45 am and had dinner (?) there, leaving at 11:05 am.
Grave's Ridge from ledge on Lyttle's Dip
From the pass, we descended steeply for 800 ft, veering towards the right. Then we struck a watercourse, and beside it lay the remains of a tent.
Down beside this course we went until we could go no further owing to being on the lip of a precipice.
Looking up at G.T. Pass from Esperance Hut
looking down into Esperance Valley from Grave's Ridge
(highlighting the Esperance Hut)
Then we struck over to the left, striking the first rope, and after that a series of ledges led us to a tarn which we reached at 1:10 pm.
Looking back from tarn along ledges
The route led us steeply down from this tarn, and after a great deal of rough scrambling, we reached the Esperance Hut at 2:45.
Esperance Hut, Esperance Valley
We had a dip in the pool below the hut. It was cold, but worth it. It was a glorious day.
Bathing in Esperance Pool
We took 8¼ hours to do the Grave-Talbot from Homer to Esperance, stops included. That is good time.
Thurs 5 Jan
We left the Esperance Hut (which had not been used since March 1932. We were therefore the first party over the Grave-Talbot in the season) at 5:50 am for Milford. It was a great morning. The Esperance track is rapidly becoming overgrown, but we made good time down to the Gulliver River, and reached the camp there at 6:45 am.
Looking back, we could see the Gertrude Saddle. Pushing on, we reached and crossed the Cleddau at 7:35 by a swing bridge. The track from here on is really more like a road, so good and wide is it. We passed an iron hut at 7:55, and a 2-mile peg (from Milford) at 8:25.
Then we came out at Milford, where the Cleddau meets the sea. This river we forded at 9 am, and walked over to the Milford Hostel, reaching it at 9:15 am. Here we had a bath and a light lunch, before setting out at 12:10 pm on a motor boat for the Sandfly Huts.
These huts we reached at 12:30 pm, and followed the track through the bush to Lake Ada, arriving there at 1:15 pm. We took the boat across the lake, arriving at the other side at 2:05 pm. The track then ran through the bush all the way to Quintin Huts, which we reached at 4:05 pm. We saw the Sutherland Falls.
At Quintin Huts, we had afternoon tea, leaving at 4:35 pm to climb over the McKinnon Pass. We reached the hut at the top of this pass at 6:25 pm, rested for a few minutes, and then made our way down into the Clinton Canyon, and thence to Pompolona Huts, which we reached at 8:05 pm.
This day was our hardest, I think, having started at 5:50 am and finishing up at 8:05 pm, walking about 35 miles.
They gave us a good tea at Pompolona, and the beds were great.
Fri 6 Jan
It rained like billy-oh in the night, and was still pelting down when we left the huts at 8:15 am for Glade House. However after an hour’s walking, it stopped and we were able to take our capes off. We reached Glade House at 11:20 am, after being ferried across the Clinton River.
We had dinner there, and left at 1:20 pm to climb up the Dore Pass, the top of which was reached at 4:50. While making our way down the other side, we met a Peter Kania & Miss Lyndsay, whom we had seen coming down from Homer. They were going over to Glade House & then to Milford.
After striking the bush level, the track, which was very like the Routeburn one, led us down to the junction of the Murcott Burn with the Eglinton.
Here we slept the night in Jock Edgar’s tents. Murray’s and Rob’s feet were in bad condition after the day’s walk; Rob’s toes being all skinned.
Sat 7 Jan
Raining hard when we got up. We left the tents for Howden at 8:45 am. We forded the Eglinton, and Lindsay McCurdy carried Rob across. Soon we were on the new Eglinton Road, which we struck at the 42-mile peg. We had a rest at the 47-mile peg which we reached at 10 am, and then the Eglinton Camp was reached at 10:15 am. Here we had morning tea, and then followed the road round Lake Gunn, struck along the track to Lake Fergus, reaching the middle of this lake at 12 noon. Lake Lochie was arrived at at 12:30 pm, and the track up through the bush was followed till the zigzag was reached at 1 pm.
A little way up this, we rested at 1:05 pm near some falls. We reached the top of the hill at 1:30 pm, and then down to good old Lake Howden we went, getting there at 1:35 pm. It was fine when we got there, but there had been showers all morning.
I tried my hand at scones, but they weren’t a success.
Sun 8 Jan
Murray, Dad & Rob left for Kinloch over the Routeburn track, Alec Hyndman for Elfin Bay down the Greenstone.
Lindsay and I were left.
We set off from Howden at 9:15 am for Homer. We quickly went down Gentle Annie, also called Lippe’s Mistake, and reached the cliff beside the Hollyford at 10:35 am. Falls Creek appeared before us at 11:20, Here we rested.
We reached Camera Flat at 11:45. Here we met a party consisting of Mr G D Anderson, Miss Whitaker, Miss Bath, Miss Lovett, Mr Millar & Mr Stapp.
We arrived at Monkey Creek at 1:25. Here we had dinner. Just past Camera Flat we passed a
party, also going to Homer, consisting of Bill Cleine, Jack Dobbie and Ivan O’Brien.
We forded Monkey Creek & reached the Lone Birch at 2:30 pm. Cirque Camp was reached at 2:55.
When we got to the ford of the Hollyford, we did not cross, but kept up on the left side of the river. The route is quote good, and there is a bit of a track. The proper track was rejoined later on, and we arrived at the Forks at 3:40, then Homer Camp at 3:55 pm.
It had been a perfect day, and we took 6 hrs 40 mins to reach Homer from Howden, stops included. The other party arrived at about 6:30pm.
Mon 9 Jan
Rained all day. We had planned to go up Mt Barrier via the Gertrude Saddle with the other party, but were forced to stay in the hut.
This time I made a great success of the scones – they rose about an inch.
The Homer River, generally dry as a bone, was pouring down in boiling flood, the first time I have seen the river at all.
Sox were darned, books read, etc.
Tues 10 Jan
Other party left at 6 am for the Grave-Talbot Pass. We received news next day that they got over all right.
Lindsay and I left for the Gertrude over the scree slopes at the foot of Mt Talbot at 6:15 am. Black Lake was reached at 7:45 am, and Gertrude Saddle at 8:30 am, after crossing a large patch of snow. There was a great view from the saddle down towards Milford. We made up the ridge on the right, at first on rock, and then up a huge snowfield, the biggest I have yet seen.
When we reached the top of the ridge, we made along it, with the intention of reaching the top of Mt Barrier, which would have been an easy climb, but the mist came down like a blanket, and we were forced to give it up.
Instead, we went up to the highest part of the snowfield above Gertrude Saddle. There is a marvellous view from here, it is about twice as good as that from Gertrude. You can see all the mountains to the north, east, west and south. Down below on the north side lies Lake Adelaide, which is a huge lake. It was a great pity that most of the tops were fogged, since the view would have been absolutely perfect, had there been no mist.
Then, after taking photos, we went back down on to the Saddle, reaching it at 10:30 am. Then we made our way back to Homer Hut, arriving there at 12:20 pm.
We had dinner, and then I baked another batch of scones.
Wed 11 Jan
Day fine, although tops were fogged. Set out at 8:45 am for Mt McPherson. Climbed Homer’s Saddle, reaching the top at 9:45 am. Then Talbot’s Ladder was climbed, reaching the top at 10:15 am. Then we made up the big snowfield above the rocks, and after climbing about 500 feet in mist, reached the summit at 11 am. The mist enveloped us, but it lifted momentarily 4 times, and I managed to secure a photo every time. We could see the Grave-Talbot Pass when it lifted once, and Mts Tutoko and Underwood.
We left for home at 12 noon, reaching the top of Talbot’s Ladder at 12:30 pm, and Homer’s Saddle at 1 pm. We came down the saddle pretty fast, and arrived back at the hut at 1:45 pm.
That afternoon Peter Kania and Miss Lindsay arrived over the Grave-Talbot Pass, so that if the mist had lifted, we could have watched them coming over all morning. They brought the news that the other party had got over.
Thurs 12 Jan
Left 7:45 am for Lake Howden. Reached the Forks at 8 am, then Cirque Camp at 8:35 am. The Lone Birch was passed at 8:55 am, and we forded Monkey Creek at 9:05 am. Then we made quick time through the bush to Camera Flat, reaching it at 10:25 am. Falls Creek was reached at 10:35 am, and we rested there for a while before going on to the cliff above the Hollyford, down which we climbed at 11:20 am. We rested at Rocky Creek at 11:40 am. Then came the stiff Gentle Annie, but it wasn’t so bad, and we got to Howden at 1 pm. That means 5¼ hours from Homer. Pretty fast time!
Baked some more scones in the afternoon. The rain came on later in the afternoon.
Fri 13 Jan
It rained hard in the night, and was spitting all morning. There was a party of Services there, and they were good sorts. We chopped wood all morning, and in the afternoon I baked another batch of scones. I had a pain all day and felt ill, but I slept it off that night.
Sat 14 Jan
We left for the Routeburn Huts at 6:15 am. Easy walking up the new track brought us to the Earland Falls at 7. The new track is formed almost to Lake McKenzie, being almost 4 miles long. We reached the lake at 8:30 am. It was very low and so calm that there was a perfect reflection of the Emily Pass in it. We then made our way up the blazed trail through the bush on the left of the lake, and then out into the open on to the zigzag, the top of which was reached at 9:50 am. The track led us round a spur and along round the slopes of Ocean Peak. The view was wonderful, with Lake McKerrow away down the Lower Hollyford Valley to the north, and Mts Tutoko and Madeline to the north-west, while Mt Christina lay to the south-west. When we reached the first big stream flowing down from Ocean Peak at 10:15, we stopped and had lunch, leaving at 11 am. When we reached the end of the Caples track, and turned and climbed up on to Lake Harris Saddle; it took us 11 minutes to do this short but sharp climb, thus taking 60 times as long as a good runner, since it was about 100 yds.
We reached the saddle at 12 noon, and then we followed the track down the open, then in the bush, until the Routeburn Huts were reached at 1:20 pm. Thus we took 7 hrs 5 mins from Lake Howden, stops included. It was hot, hot day, with no breeze or wind. That night we slept in the Services’ tents.
Sun 15 Jan
A beautiful cloudless day. We left the Routeburn Huts at 10 am. After fording the Routeburn in bare feet, we went down the flats, and then entered the bush. The bush here is great, but there are too many spider webs for my liking. Since I was in front, I caught them all, in my face, hair, hands, clothes, legs and everywhere. Soon we came out of the bush on to a boggy track, but the foot track soon led into the bush again, and across the Routeburn in a swing bridge, which we reached at 11:50 am. Here we lunched, leaving at 12:50 pm. It was good walking from here down to the road. When 9 miles distant from Kinloch, we branched off the road to Cook’s sawmill, and when half a mile along this road, we lay down and rested for half an hour, leaving at 2 pm. We got to Cook’s house at 2:10 pm. They were very kind to us, and gave us afternoon tea.
We went over to Sylvan Lake and had a dip. It was very warm and we had good fun.
Cooks were building a suspension bridge over the Routeburn to replace one which was washed away. When we left, they had practically finished it, having taken 4 days to do a job which would have taken Public Works men 4 months.
We had tea and went to bed at Cook’s place.
Mon 16 Jan
We breakfasted at Cook’s, then I went for a horse-ride with Charlie Cook.
On arriving home, Lindsay and I left in Mr Cook’s car for Kinloch at 11:45 am. It was a rough trip, but we arrived at 12:25 pm and got on the boat, which left 5 minutes after we arrived.
It tied up at Glenorchy at 12:50 pm. We had lunch on the boat, and then went for a stroll round. We met a Mr Fitt who was working with Mr Dan McKenzie putting the ropes on Talbot’s Ladder in 1925.
The boat left Glenorchy at 4 pm. We arrived in Queenstown at 7:45 pm, and had a great dinner at home. We had been 15 days out.
This trip was most successful, the best we have done yet. I think I am about the youngest to have gone over the Grave-Talbot Pass, being 15. We are rather sick of rice and prunes now, though.
We did the round trip - Howden - Homer - G-T Pass - Milford - Glade House - Dore Pass - Eglinton - Howden and back to Homer again, being the 3rd party to do this since 1927.
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